Every summer, the town of Furano – known as the "bellybutton" (heso) of Hokkaido for its central position on the island – hosts the Hokkai Heso Matsuri, which has been celebrating all things bellybutton since 1969.
The event centers on a unique bellybutton dance where participants paint faces onto their stomachs, tying a “happi coat” with fake arms around the waist to create the illusion of a small kimono worn by their stomach-character.
During my summer working on a farm in nearby Biei, my friends and I couldn’t resist joining in on the festivities. Despite a rainstorm that had my stomach-character looking like it was crying instead of smiling, the weather couldn’t kill the energy – after learning the steps to the traditional bellybutton dance (heso odori), we paraded down the street to perform before judges while drummers and singers performed live. Winning was the goal, of course (seriously, I put everything I had into my stomach-friend and I’s performance), but the real prize was the joy of getting to dance alongside hundreds of visitors and locals alike.
Decades later, the tradition remains as popular as ever, bringing together around 4,000 bellybutton-dancers each year on July 28 and 29.
